1965 and 1966 mustang fuse box guide

When you’re working on your Mustang restoration project you’re bound to blow the occasional fuse or two. This article will help you to locate your 1965 mustang fuse box, seek out blown fuses, identify which fuse does what, and to replace the blown fuses with new ones with the correct amperage.

It’s always wisest to disconnect your battery when you’re doing electrical work, but sometimes it happens anyway – whether you’re working on interior lighting, installing a radio or repairing the instrument cluster.

You can easily identify a blown fuse with the naked eye. For one, the wire inside the glass casing will be broken. In case of short circuit, the casing will also show signs of discoloration or burning.

 

1965 and 1966 Mustang fuse box location

On a 1965 or 1966 Mustang, you can locate the fuse box on the drivers side, below the dash. It’s right above the kick panel, to the left of the steering wheel. You will need to get your head all the way in there under the steering wheel to be able to get a good look at it. Don’t forget to bring a flashlight!

Here is a picture and a diagram of what you’re looking for:

1965 and 1966 mustang fuse box

Fuse box diagram

Now all that remains is to determine which fuse is responsible for which electrical circuits. The following image will help you with this:

mustang fuse box diagram

  1.  14 AMP –  Back up Lights, Radio, Gear shifter PRNDL Light, Turn Signal
  2.  14 AMP –   Heater and Defroster
  3.  2.5 AMP * –  Instrument Panel, Cluster Lights, Tachometer Light, Radio Light
  4.  7.5  AMP –   Dome, Courtesy, Map Light, Glove Box and Luggage Compartment Lights, Clock Light, Seat Belt Warning, Door Ajar Warning
  5.  20 AMP – Cigarette Lighter, Emergency Warning Flasher

Note that not all of these are used all the time. Some of them are options and many of them were not available on a stock ’65 Mustang, like for example the emergency warning flasher or the dome light.

Make sure to use the right amperage for each fuse. New fuses can be found online, in most auto shops and even in radio supply shops. They generally come with a little plastic twist tool which makes removal and installation of the fuses a lot easier.

* Edit 23/07/2019: FYI, I just found out that the AGA 2.5-amp fuse no longer exists! It has been replaced by AGA 3-amp fuses, which do come in the correct size (the really short, stubby ones).

As a small encore, here’s an extract from the ’66 owners manual about fuses:

66 mustang fuse information

Did this post help you? Do you have experience with this subject? Share your thoughts or ask a question in the comments section!

Here’s some external links to other sites with information on 1965 fuse boxes:

https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/65-fastback-fuse-box-location.998146/

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/threads/1965-mustang-fuse-panel-fuse-box-diagram.154729/page-2

26 thoughts on “1965 and 1966 mustang fuse box guide”

  1. The area for the 14 Amp (areas 1 & 2) and 20 Amp (area 5) fuses are the same size, do they sell a 20 Amp fuse the same size as a 14 Amp? I can’t find one.

    Reply
    • Hey Gordon! Thanks for your comment!

      Good question, too! I’m not 100% sure myself. However, I’m going to check this as soon as I get a chance to pop over to my garage and get back to you!

      Reply
      • Thank you so much Frank . Yes it’s been a while for myself . I am now after the size , length of the 2.5 fuse for instrument panel in the 65 Mustang for the instrument panel . It is really tiny .

  2. An AGX 20 fuse will fit, as the SFE 20 is too long (#5 in your diagram). Try part number BK7821064 at Napa for the AGX fuse in the 20 amp fating. Interestingly, I read that Ford changed the fuse rating from 14A to 20A, but forgot to make the location bigger in the fuse box to fit the longer 20A fuse.

    Reply
    • Hey Howard,
      Thanks for your reply! Yes, that is indeed an interesting bit of historical information, i’ll definitely remember that one!

      Reply
    • They moved them (67/68, 69?) a bit further up to avoid the water encroaching through the engine cowling (firewall). Solved some of the headaches but those old glass fuses were susceptible to the clips weakening/bending/pushing out, and then you add someone wrapping foil wrapper “just till I get home” (or until I smell smoke😢), and it’s amazing some of those old beauties still survive.

      Reply
    • Headlights are (rarely) fused in any way. Sometimes you’ll have a “fusible link” that’s a bit of wire inserted inline on certain circuits, that’s designed to melt through in case of a short. My best guess (40+ years mechanical/electrical) would be the dimmer switch. It’s in a pretty grungy location, and always getting kicked/stepped on🤬. A quick check for the dimmer switch is to take a tester (I prefer a Volt/Ohm meter, but a probe-type test lamp will work), and turn your headlight switch on. The dimmer switch has 3 wires/connectors: Red/Yellow (from H/L switch and top/center on connector), Red/Black (to Low), and Green/Black (to High). Connect the neg lead to a good body ground and 1st check for 12v+ (light) at Red/Yellow. Check each of the two remaining terminals WITHOUT changing the switch position. After checking, THEN activate switch and check again. If you have good results there, follow the High/Low wires from the switch through the firewall (may be easier from the LH (driver’s) headlight back towards the firewall, and look for the wires, checking them as you find them.

      BTW, while you’re already fighting the problem, get you some “Dielectric Grease”. I use the CRC stuff that has a pressurized dispenser (UPC 78254051130 abt $14 at O’Reilly for a 3oz can) and a small squeeze gets a small delivery. This stuff works for anything and everything “electrical” (plugs/wires, bulbs/sockets, harness connectors). As a former professional mechanic, I can’t tell you haw many times it’s the little things like this that “keep ’em coming back again”. Here’s a short list of the O’Reilly #’s, I don’t work for, have any investments/get kickbacks from, or otherwise. They’re down the road, and when I used to live “out in the boonies” I hade a friend with a small shop they’d deliver to for no additional charge or minimum monthly business. The other “Big Name” Go-To’s wouldn’t even talk possibilities until he established a “Business Acct”. I’m from the “Old School”, my money goes where I feel appreciated…. Just sayin…
      Hope I’ve been helpful. Look for James P. Lemley on the Classic Mustang Community ( https://m.facebook.com/groups/292924578258963/?ref=group_browse ), and let me know how it worked out.
      Blessings🙏🙏🙏

      1965 Ford Mustang Dimmer Switch & Parts
      Standard Ignition 3 Terminal Headlight Dimmer Switch
      Part # DS70 $14.99 each Fits 1965 Ford Mustang
      Standard Ignition 3 Terminal Multi-Purpose Connector
      Part # S72 $8.19 each Fits 1965 Ford Mustang

      Non Vehicle Specific
      CRC Industries Dielectric Grease
      Part # 05113 $13.99 each Fits Non Vehicle Specific

      Reply
  3. I have a fuse box diagram for a 1965 Mustang but no fuse is indicating for brake lights . Which fuse operates the brake lights as both brake went out at the same time ?

    Reply
  4. I see this diagrams shows a 20 amp fuse for cigarette lighter and emergency flashers, my 66 mustang fuse box, bottom one is imprinted 14 amp????

    Reply

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